Affixed to the wall near the city gate in the town of Dubrovnik on Croatia’s beautiful Dalmatian Coast, is a map showing the scale of damage the city suffered during the Croatian War of Independence (1991–1995). The black triangles denote damaged roof, the red boxes denote fires, and the black dots denote direct artillery hits. The damage has been repaired today, but from high points around the city one can clearly see where the bombs fell from the brightly coloured new roofs. While Dubrovnik recovered, the memory of the conflict lingers elsewhere, and nowhere more than in Kupari, located just 10 km to the east of the city.

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